The passion behind Capegypsy slow fashion.
Read more about my personal journey with fabric, the fashion industry and future product goals for Capegypsy.
Hello fellow Wanderers,
This morning I sat at my home studio desk lost in thought. On the shelves next to me were products in various developmental stages, sketch books, fabrics, and materials. Fabric and material choices that have taken much research and careful choosing. When I think about both how much time I’ve spent choosing these, and how important each one is, it really is a quiet realization, as to just how much of a passion and journey Capegypsy is for me.
For as long as I can remember I’ve been tactile sensitive to fabrics and am always the one arbitrary person rubbing the fabric of clothes as I walk through the rails, feeling how soft or non-scratchy they are, before even trying it on or thinking of buying. Some fabrics just give me the goosies and as I’ve gotten older, more and more seem to do so.
At the age of thirty I finally found out that I had been born with a rare autoimmune that had also advanced into a second one. This diagnosis brought a new understanding to many odd physical challenges I had faced growing up. One of them being a sensitivity to certain fabrics and that there was now a good reason behind my sensitive skin. Eco conscious choices have always been an important part of my life, once I started reading clothing labels and understanding fabric make ups, the obvious move to only natural fabrics was easy. Not only was my skin happier but it was a logical choice to lead a more environmentally conscious life.
Over the last while, I have seen my personal lifestyle choice become aligned with many others. As a society we are trying to make the move to lift our carbon footprint through these choices. This move to choosing sustainable and eco conscious fabrics, both in fashion and in interior design has grown considerably, with people becoming more aware of the environmental impact of just their clothing alone. Model UN programs have also started to use sustainable materials such as hemp and organic cotton, helping to further introduce sustainable fabrics into the hands of students and future designers.
Sustainable fashion is often marketed as eco-friendly or green fashion, with a focus on using textiles for their intended purpose and simply not just for their aesthetic appeal, or to be seen as trendy. Often, we see big brands marketing new season collections brandishing the words, eco-friendly or sustainable fabric, when in actual fact it may be eco-friendly in a small way but still be mass produced in factories.
Green fashion is a term used to describe the practice of clothing that is made from organic and sustainable materials. The most significant issue with sustainability is the pollution generated by traditional production methods like tanning. Leather products in particular are responsible for a large percentage of the world’s animal waste, which in turn pollutes rivers and lakes. As demand for animal-derived leather has increased, so has the demand for these communities’ land and resources, making it difficult to sustain their livelihoods as well as our planet. A lack of resources in some developing countries also leads to deforestation where trees are cut down and burned for their bark and leaves, which are in turn used in the tanning process. Today, the industry is using an increasing number of resources to exist, leading to an increase in environmental destruction as well. As we use more and more resources, it becomes increasingly difficult to keep up with demand without damaging the planet even further. The need for alternatives to animal leather use has been a journey for many and there are now new plant-based alternatives e.g. pineapple, mushroom, cacti, coffee grounds and more. These plant based leathers have many benefits, they are cruelty free, kinder to the environment and often more durable. This is an option I am now researching for my own bags, currently they are made from locally sourced, reclaimed leather, however I would like to make the shift completely into more ethical plant leathers.
Sustainable fabrics that are made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, hemp, and bamboo are grown with sustainable production methods, and require less energy to produce, or harmful chemicals. Placing less strain on our natural resources. These materials that are made from renewable resources such as bamboo and hemp are grown without the use of synthetic pesticides, or cotton that can be grown without the use of genetically engineered seeds. These fabrics last longer and are also biodegradable, which means they won't take up space in landfills for years after it has been discarded or be dumped in bundles for others to sell.
Recycled materials that are a by-product from non-eco-friendly readymade products can be reprocessed or reused in a way that reduces their environmental impact. The use of recycled plastic bottles into PET felt and t-shirt material, has grown and is filtering into mainstream stores. The next time you see a recycled sticker on an item of clothing, have a look at the label and find out exactly what composition of by-products the fabric has been made from. Non-eco-friendly fabrics, on the other hand, require large quantities of harmful chemicals and a significant amount of energy during production. They also must be disposed of after they are used unless they are recycled as they are not biodegradable.
As we become more knowledgeable about our clothing choices, we possibly need to also be mindful of justifying some fabrics that may be earth friendly but still place strain in certain areas. I’ve always loved cotton clothing, as it breathes and is gentle on the skin, I truly believed I had made the right choice in terms of sustainability. Unfortunately after researching more, I realized that cotton can also place a burden on our footprint, just a single pair of your beloved jeans, and trust me I have jeans I truly love, which can take up to a kilogram of cotton to make. Well, that may not sound too bad you think, however this kilogram of cotton can take between 7,500 to 10,000 litres of water to produce, rather a scary thought, but before you take a denim ban, rest easy that eco conscious choices are available.
This is also now possibly why a move towards linen and wool has become more prominent. Many fashion designers worldwide that are consciously making eco choices are including these fabrics into their collections. Stella McCartney is a phenomenal designer who has been one of the leading pioneers for changing fashion. Her collections are made up of environmentally friendly, cruelty free pieces, with a focus on ethically sourced wool and recycled textiles. Her Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week collection featured soft organic cotton denim and vegan leather alternatives.
Next week, during Cape Town Fashion week, African Fashion International will be celebrating its 15 year anniversary, while focusing on sustainably produced fashion and its importance. Attending this week with Capegypsy is an exciting opportunity to strengthen the brand's journey into eco conscious choices.
Keep a look out next week for all the updates from Fashion Week on the Capegypsy social platforms.
Gwen
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